A finely crafted watch is more than just a tool for telling time. It’s a statement of personal style, a marvel of engineering you can wear on your wrist, and for the discerning buyer, a sound investment. Unlike many luxury purchases that depreciate the moment you leave the store, a well-chosen timepiece can hold its value, and in many cases, appreciate significantly over the years.
But with a sea of brands, models, and styles, how do you navigate the market to find a watch that’s not only a pleasure to wear but also a smart financial move? This guide is for the Australian man who appreciates the finer things in life and is ready to make a considered investment in a timepiece that will last a lifetime and beyond. We’ll delve into what makes a watch a good investment, and then explore some of the best men’s watches to consider this year.
What Transforms a Watch from a Time-Teller to an Investment?
Before we dive into specific models, it’s important to understand the factors that contribute to a watch’s investment potential. It’s not just about a high price tag. A true investment-grade watch possesses a unique combination of qualities that make it desirable to collectors and enthusiasts alike.
- Brand Heritage and Reputation: Brands with a long and storied history of innovation, craftsmanship, and prestige are always in high demand. Think of the Swiss horological giants who have been perfecting their craft for over a century. Their names are synonymous with quality and have earned the trust of generations.
- The Power of the Movement: The movement, or calibre, is the heart of a watch. In-house movements, designed and manufactured by the watch brand itself, are highly prized. They are a testament to the brand’s technical prowess and commitment to watchmaking excellence. Mechanical movements, both automatic and hand-wound, are the go-to for investment pieces, offering a tangible connection to the tradition of watchmaking.
- Materials and Craftsmanship: The quality of the materials used in a watch is a significant factor in its value. While precious metals like gold and platinum are obvious indicators of luxury, high-grade stainless steel, particularly 904L steel used by some high-end brands, is also highly valued for its durability and finish. The level of hand-finishing on the case, bracelet, and movement components also adds to a watch’s value and appeal.
- Rarity and Exclusivity: As with any collectible, scarcity drives value. Limited edition models, discontinued references, and watches with a unique provenance or history are often the most sought-after. A watch that is difficult to acquire new will almost certainly command a premium on the pre-owned market.
- Iconic Design and Timeless Appeal: Some watches have achieved iconic status thanks to their timeless design. These are the watches that look as good today as they did 50 years ago. Their designs have transcended fleeting trends, making them a safe bet for a long-term investment.
- Condition, Box, and Papers: For the serious collector, the condition of a watch is paramount. But equally important are the original box, warranty card, manuals, and receipts. This full set, often referred to as “box and papers,” authenticates the watch and significantly increases its value.
The Best Men’s Watches to Invest in This Year
Now, let’s explore some of the timepieces that are making waves in the investment market this year. We’ve included a range of options, from the pinnacle of luxury watchmaking to more accessible yet highly respected brands.
The Entry-Level Investment: Seiko Prospex
While often celebrated for their affordability and reliability, certain Seiko models have become highly collectible and represent a fantastic entry point into the world of watch investment. The Seiko Prospex line, particularly the dive watches, offers exceptional value and has a dedicated following.
- Why it’s a good investment: Seiko is a true manufacture, producing everything in-house. This level of vertical integration is rare at their price point. Limited edition Prospex models, especially collaborations and anniversary editions, have a proven track record of appreciating in value. They are robust, reliable, and offer plenty of watch for your money. For the budding Aussie watch enthusiast, a limited edition Seiko Prospex is a smart first investment.
- What to look for: Keep an eye out for the “Save the Ocean” special editions or re-interpretations of classic Seiko divers from the 1960s and 70s. These often have unique dials and features that make them stand out.
- Availability: Carmen Jewellers is a proud stockist of Seiko watches. We invite you to explore our collection and discover the quality and craftsmanship that Seiko has to offer.
The Accessible Swiss Icon: The Tudor Black Bay
Tudor, the sister company of Rolex, has stepped out of its big brother’s shadow in recent years and has become a powerhouse in its own right. The Tudor Black Bay collection, particularly the Black Bay 58, has been a phenomenal success.
- Why it’s a good investment: The Black Bay offers a vintage-inspired aesthetic, exceptional build quality, and an in-house movement, all at a price point that is more accessible than a Rolex. Tudor watches have been steadily increasing in value, and the brand’s popularity continues to grow. The Black Bay 58, with its perfectly proportioned 39mm case, has been a particular favourite among Aussie watch lovers.
- What to look for: The classic black dial Black Bay 58 is a safe bet, but the blue and bronze versions are also highly desirable. Any of the Black Bay models with the in-house MT (Manufacture Tudor) calibres are a good choice.
The All-Rounder: The Omega Speedmaster Professional
The Omega Speedmaster Professional, or “Moonwatch,” is one of the most iconic chronographs in the world. Its history is intertwined with space exploration, having been the first watch worn on the moon.
- Why it’s a good investment: The Speedmaster has a rich history that no other watch can match. Its design has remained largely unchanged for decades, a testament to its timeless appeal. Omega produces a wide variety of Speedmaster models, but the classic Moonwatch is the one to have. It’s a versatile watch that can be dressed up or down, and its value has been on a steady upward trend.
- What to look for: Look for the classic Speedmaster Professional with a Hesalite crystal and a hand-wound movement for the most authentic Moonwatch experience. Special editions and anniversary models, like the “Silver Snoopy Award” editions, are highly sought-after by collectors.
The Industry Benchmark: The Rolex Submariner
No list of investment watches would be complete without the Rolex Submariner. It is, quite simply, the most iconic dive watch ever made and a benchmark for the entire luxury watch industry.
- Why it’s a good investment: The Submariner is a blue-chip investment. Its value retention is legendary, and in most cases, it appreciates in value. The demand for Rolex sports models far outstrips supply, meaning that even pre-owned Submariners sell for a premium. It’s a watch that is instantly recognisable and respected worldwide.
- What to look for: Both the classic black-dial Submariner Date and the “No-Date” Submariner are excellent investments. The stainless steel models are the most popular, but the two-tone and precious metal versions also have their own appeal. Discontinued models, like the green-bezel “Hulk” (ref. 116610LV), have seen a significant increase in value.
The Holy Trinity: Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet
For those with a larger budget and a desire for the absolute pinnacle of watchmaking, we enter the realm of the “Holy Trinity” of Swiss watchmaking: Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet (along with Vacheron Constantin).
- Patek Philippe Nautilus: The Nautilus is the quintessential luxury sports watch. Designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, its distinctive porthole-inspired case is instantly recognisable. The demand for the Nautilus is so high that waiting lists are years long, and the prices on the secondary market are astronomical.
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: The Royal Oak is another Gérald Genta masterpiece and the watch that created the luxury sports watch category in 1972. Its octagonal bezel with exposed screws is an icon of watch design. Like the Nautilus, the Royal Oak is incredibly difficult to acquire and is a surefire investment.
Tips for Buying an Investment Watch in Australia
Once you’ve decided on the watch you want to invest in, it’s crucial to approach the buying process with care and diligence.
- Buy from a Reputable Dealer: Whether you’re buying new or pre-owned, always buy from a trusted and authorised dealer. Carmen Jewellers is an authorised dealer for a range of quality watch brands, and we pride ourselves on our expertise and customer service.
- Do Your Research: Familiarise yourself with the specific model you’re interested in. Know the correct reference number, the details of the dial, and the type of bracelet it should have. This will help you spot any inconsistencies.
- Insist on Box and Papers: As mentioned earlier, the original box and papers are crucial for an investment watch. They are your proof of authenticity and will be essential if you ever decide to sell the watch.
- Consider the Service History: For pre-owned watches, a documented service history is a real bonus. It shows that the watch has been well-maintained and is in good working order.
- Buy What You Love: While the investment potential is important, at the end of the day, you should buy a watch that you love and will enjoy wearing. A watch is a personal item, and the joy of owning and wearing a beautiful timepiece is a return on investment in itself.
The Final Word
Investing in a luxury watch is a journey. It’s about appreciating the art of watchmaking, understanding the history and heritage of the great brands, and making a considered choice that will bring you joy for years to come. Whether you’re starting your collection with a Seiko Prospex or aspiring to a Rolex Submariner, the world of horology has something to offer every discerning Aussie.
At Carmen Jewellers, we are passionate about watches. We invite you to visit us and explore our collection of fine timepieces. Our knowledgeable staff will be delighted to guide you through the features and history of each watch and help you find the perfect piece to add to your collection.
